Ceniza · one sitting
Nine courses, one room
Twenty-four covers, 19:30 for 20:00, and a menu that changes when the boat says it changes. €135, or €203 with the wines.
Nuria cooks what arrives
She came from Etxebarri by way of two years in a kitchen in Lima and took the job on the condition that nothing would be flown in. That means no butter most weeks, no beef at all, and a menu written at four in the afternoon rather than in January.
It also means the fish is four hours old and the potatoes were dug that morning by a man who has grown them at seven hundred metres for thirty-one years. If the boat does not come, dinner is different. Nobody has complained yet.
- Sittings
- One, 19:30 for 20:00
- Covers
- 24
- Menu
- €135 per person
- With wines
- €203 per person
- Closed
- Mondays, and all of February
- Children
- Welcome; there is a shorter menu at 18:30
The menu
This week, as it stands
Written 16:40 today
Lapas de la Punta Bermeja
Limpets, prised off at low water an hour before service. Garlic, parsley stalk, a squeeze of the local lime.
Papas antiguas, mojo verde
Negra yema de huevo potatoes from the terraces at 700 m. The mojo is coriander, not parsley, and Nuria will argue about it.
Caldo de pescado de roca
The bones of whatever the morning boat could not sell, an hour of cooking, and nothing else.
Vieja curada, ajo blanco de almendra
Parrotfish salted for thirty hours. Almonds from the last four trees on the north side.
Cherne a la brasa, algas del cantil
Wreckfish over vine cuttings from Aitor’s winter pruning, with three seaweeds off the cliff below the cove.
Cabra lechal, zanahoria de la ceniza
Kid from the Fuencaliente herd, seven hours at 72°. Carrots grown in ash, which makes them sweet and very small.
Queso de la isla, miel de tedera
Two cheeses, one three weeks old and one nine months, and honey from the tedera on the south slope.
Bienmesabe helado, almendra amarga
The island’s almond pudding, frozen, with enough bitter almond in it to be interesting.
Gofio, café y sal
A spoonful. Roasted maize flour, coffee, salt from the pans at Punta Bermeja. Everybody asks for a second.
Vegetarian, vegan and coeliac menus are cooked to the same length and the same idea; tell us when you book rather than at the table, because the bread takes two days.
Ceniza Blanco
2024 · malvasía volcánica
Salt, green almond, and the smell of a struck match that volcanic malvasía always has and nobody can quite explain. Fermented in chestnut, four months on lees.
Ferrera Tinto
2023 · listán negro
Thin in the good sense: cold red fruit, iron, and a finish like wet stone. Whole bunch, foot-trodden, eleven months in old barrels.
Bruma
2021 · late harvest malvasía
Picked in the second week of November when the fog comes back. Quince, orange peel and salt again. Drunk with the cheese, or instead of it.
The bathhouse café
Open 12:30 to 16:30 under the loggia, where it is twelve degrees cooler than the deck. Bread, tomato, cheese, a plate of whatever Nuria trimmed off the evening menu, and cold malvasía by the glass at €7. No booking; there are nine tables and they turn.
Breakfast
08:00 to 11:00, at Ceniza or on your terrace, included in every rate. Gofio with hot milk and honey if you want the island version; eggs, tomato and good bread if you do not. Coffee is from Agaete, on Gran Canaria — the only coffee grown in Europe, and worth the boast.
Reserve
Twenty-four seats, once a night
+34 922 48 11 40