06:15 · Dawn
A swim before the sun
Down the steps in the dark, in by six-thirty, out before the sun clears the rim. Lucía brings a thermos and does not talk much.
No charge
Experiences · 10
Ten things, each at its hour
Nothing here happens twice a day. The island has one right time for most things, and this is a list of them.
07:00 · Dawn
The bread oven
The wood oven behind Ceniza is lit at five. Come at seven, shape four loaves badly, and take one back to your room warm.
€30
09:30 · Morning
The rows with Aitor
2.4 hectares, 1,180 vines, one mule. He will explain the zocos, and then explain why the trade wind is the whole argument.
€45
10:00 · Morning
Rock pools with Nuria
Limpets, sea urchins, three seaweeds and the rule about never taking the last one. What you find is on the menu that night.
€60
12:00 · Noon
The bathhouse, properly
Hot, cold, salt room, twenty minutes flat on the stone under the loggia. Two people at a time, because the room is small.
€70
11:30 · Noon
A cooking morning
Four dishes off the current menu with Nuria and one commis, then lunch at the pass with the kitchen.
€140
15:00 · Afternoon
The rim at the right hour
Up the mule track to 1,412 m and round the north side, timed so that the last hour is the good light. Not for anyone in a hurry.
€80
16:00 · Afternoon
The north cliffs by boat
Out of the landing stage under 400 m of black rock, into two sea caves if the swell is under a metre.
€110
19:00 · Dusk
Wine on the vineyard wall
The three cuvées, some cheese and the whole of the sunset from a wall at 240 m. Aitor pours and Marta talks.
€55
21:30 · Night
A night at the telescope
Rafael, the 60 cm reflector and whatever the sky is doing. Included once in every stay; this is for the second time.
€90
All ten, in the order the day takes them. Book at reception the evening before; almost everything depends on the sea or the sky, and Lucía will tell you honestly if tomorrow is not the day for it.
What the wind decides
The boat trip goes on about two hundred days a year and the rim walk on about three hundred. When the north-easterly is over twenty-five knots the cove is out and the bathhouse is suddenly very popular. Nothing is charged for if it does not happen.
Children
The dawn swim, the bread oven and the boat take children from about eight. The rim walk does not, whatever they tell you. There is no club, no programme and no one in a uniform; there is a cove, and a kitchen that will feed them at six.